By Fern Clausius, Founder of FERN New York

There’s a moment most people don’t talk about — the one right before you get dressed. You open a drawer, reach for what goes on first, and in that private act, something is either affirmed or denied. Research has shown that underwear is essential to gender and sexual identity — that even when people can’t express either outwardly, they can underneath their clothes.

I learned this firsthand. When I started designing lingerie in college and began wearing it under my own clothes, it completely changed my mindset — my exploration of my own sexuality and sexual identity. What you wear underneath dictates so much of how you feel in a day. It’s a very powerful tool.

But for most of its nearly $100-billion existence, the lingerie industry has offered that tool to only a fraction of the people who need it.

The Gap No One Was Filling

When I started looking at the market, the market was starkly binary. Women got lace briefs, thongs, and simple cotton bottoms. Men got boxers or backless thongs. And if you were transgender, non-binary, or simply someone whose body and identity didn’t map neatly onto those categories? The gaps were everywhere — and occasionally, someone named them plainly. Vice ran a headline that captured one slice of the problem: “Trans Women’s Underwear Doesn’t Exist.”

What I wanted to wear wasn’t usually meant to fit my body type — and what fit my body type rarely came in the styles I was drawn to. I wanted trans people to stop being left out of the conversation. I didn’t see anyone else offering this kind of option. So I set out to create a style that could work for any gender — with two fit variations so anyone could have equal access to the same silhouette and choose the version that feels most comfortable for their body.

That became The Androgyne.

The demand was already there. More than half of Gen Z consumers actively seek out brands that design beyond the binary — and the inclusive apparel market is growing at roughly 9% annually. Hundreds of millions of dollars have flowed into inclusive intimate apparel brands since 2020. The market was speaking — but luxury wasn’t listening.

Gender-Inclusive vs. Unisex: Why the Distinction Matters

Before going further, a distinction matters here — one I think about often.

Unisex, to me, describes products that split the difference. They sit in between masculine and feminine, and as a result, they tend toward the utilitarian. There’s a ceiling on how much style inspiration you can integrate before the design tips toward one end of the binary and defeats its own purpose. In my experience, most unisex underwear I’ve encountered lacks a sense of sexiness or sensuality, and is often made in cheaper materials.

Gender-inclusive is different. It means providing options within a style — a version that may lean more feminine, a version that may lean more masculine — so that anyone can wear the aesthetic they’re drawn to while having a fit that actually works for their body. It’s not about splitting the difference. It’s about making sure everyone has access to beauty.

Building The Androgyne: Design Decisions That Matter

Creating a piece that genuinely works across different body types required thinking carefully about every construction choice.

The Bralette

The central challenge: design something that works on a flat chest and a full chest, providing both an illusion of shape for one and genuine support for the other. I chose a stretch material — not my usual preference, since stretch fabrics are harder to recycle sustainably. But the set originated from remnant stretch fabrics from another designer, and I was able to source more from the original supplier. The sustainability trade-off was worth the inclusivity gain.

The stretch means a smaller size can lay flat on someone with no chest, while darts that aren’t sewn down create a subtle projection — think Madonna’s bullet bra by Gaultier. It’s an attribute to play with, not a shape being imposed. Meanwhile, someone with a fuller chest can fill out the same piece naturally, with the stretch accommodating cup sizes beyond standard sizing.

Two Bottoms, One Vision

I created two thong variations: the Femme and the Jacqui — a play on “jockey.”

A note on naming: when I use “Femme” for my pieces, it refers to a more traditional hourglass silhouette or a fit traditionally designed for a person with a vagina. It’s not indicative of the wearer’s sex or gender. These were the best terms I could find to distinguish between two fit variations while keeping the spirit androgynous — or as we say in French, androgyne.

If that’s a trans woman deciding she’d prefer to tuck and wear the Femme version, or not tuck but have the style of the Jacqui — they can wear whatever is more comfortable for them. That’s what gender-inclusive means in practice.

The Jacqui was a deliberate experiment. After conversations with many men, I knew they weren’t accustomed to a G-string thong. If they wore anything more exposing than boxers, it was typically an open thong. I was curious whether men would enjoy a new silhouette in that direction — and the response has been positive. The thicker fabric gives clients confidence wearing it exposed, particularly at lingerie-focused events where they want to feel both daring and comfortable.

Every style in the set features a scalloped edge — a feminine touch on an otherwise sleek, modern, and minimalistic design. I found that this set really allowed for anyone, regardless of gender, to feel comfortable integrating one or both of the pieces into their boudoir.

What I’ve Witnessed: The Power of Gender-Inclusive Lingerie

One story stays with me. A model who shot the original Androgyne campaign in Paris — at the time, they identified as a queer male. They gravitated toward the bralette with lace, the corsets, the Jacqui thong. Watching them own it in front of the camera was electric. In the time since, I’ve watched this person navigate their own relationship with gender identity — exploring what it means to be transgender and non-binary, and discovering the role fashion plays in that process. What struck me most was that the pieces didn’t define any particular moment of their journey. They were tools that worked across every stage of discovery.

It’s been a pattern with many models, particularly men. Most have never had the opportunity to wear anything like what I create. Seeing very masculine men in chiffon blouses with lace, or full-length satin and lace kimonos — watching their faces light up — has been some of the most inspiring feedback I’ve received. All genders and sexual identities have found beauty in these pieces, and felt something different from what they’re used to finding.

A client comes to mind as well — a gay cisgender man drawn to the feminine touches woven throughout the collection, something he actively embodies in his personal style. Through the process of creating a custom kimono together and exploring underwear options, we found ourselves in an unexpectedly intimate conversation about how lingerie could help him explore different sides of himself — sides he was still learning about. It was the act of trying on clothes that opened that door, a conversation he could then carry into his relationship with his partner.

Your First Steps: How to Shop for Gender-Inclusive Lingerie

If you’ve never felt comfortable in a traditional lingerie department, you’re not alone. Those spaces weren’t built with you in mind — and that can feel alienating, especially for non-binary and gender non-conforming shoppers. But that doesn’t have to stop you from finding pieces that feel right.

Here’s the approach I recommend to my clients:

Start at a Department Store — With a Friend

I know this sounds counterintuitive. But department stores can offer the widest range of silhouettes in one place, which means you can try many shapes quickly and start understanding what works on your body. The key is to reframe it: don’t go shopping. Go exploring.

Grab someone you trust or love. Make it an outing. Try on things you’d never normally consider. Have fun trying on different pieces, get to know yourself, and discover what you like and what you don’t. Every piece that doesn’t work tells you something about what will.

Then Go Specialized

Once you know what shapes and silhouettes suit you — whether that’s a particular bra style, a certain cut of panty — you’ll know exactly what to ask for at smaller boutiques like Journelle. And if you come to me wanting something custom, having tried on a range of standard pieces gives us a starting point — we can adjust from there to truly fit your body type and gender identity.

Don’t Get Discouraged

It’ll be easy to get discouraged, especially when you find many pieces that don’t fit well or don’t feel right. But every one of those pieces informs you and gets you that much closer to finding what you do like.

Body-Specific Guidance

Hourglass figure: Lean into it. Find pieces that highlight your shape, not hide it.
Square or straight figure: Look for boxier silhouettes or pieces without curved side seams — they’ll lay properly on your frame.
Flat chest: You have access to incredible bralettes that people with larger breasts can’t easily wear. That’s not a limitation — it’s a range of options.
Moderately full chest: Skip the extra padding. A properly made, well-fitting underwire bra will give you the lift, support, and shape you actually want — without the artifice.
Full chest: Find pieces with thicker straps, powermesh support on the sides, and confirm that the band size is not too big for you — make sure those straps are properly tightened too. It’s ultimately about finding a bra that alleviates weight while creating the shape you want.

A Note on Sizing and Custom Work

At the luxury level, you’ll see smaller ranges of immediately available sizes. I produce in small quantities locally, which means my ready-to-purchase selection is limited. But I design for all sizes and shapes on a custom basis — and that’s a service most companies and designers simply aren’t providing. When it comes to truly inclusive, gender-affirming luxury, custom is where the real work happens.

The Future of Gender-Inclusive Lingerie

We are living in a remarkable moment. We’ve worked hard on removing the stigma around being LGBTQ+ and around body size, feeling comfortable in our own skins, and removing the veil around talking about sexuality — not having it be this taboo thing. It’s a part of who we are. All the work that past generations have done, especially the queer elders, has made this possible. It’s a really beautiful thing.

The overall lingerie market is projected to surpass $140 billion by 2030. Right now, the younger inclusive market operates mostly at entry-level price points. But those consumers are growing up. They’re building financial stability. And they’re going to want luxury options that match their values — sustainably made, quality materials, and designs that don’t ask them to compromise their identity at the door.

We’re already seeing this shift in ready-to-wear at houses like YSL and Valentino. The intimate apparel market will follow — it’s just a matter of time. The older brands will likely hold to traditionalism, making small changes at the margins. But new brands will emerge.

And when you open that drawer — wherever you are, whoever you are — there should be something in it that was made with you in mind. FERN New York is here to make sure there is.

FERN New York creates gender-inclusive luxury lingerie and intimate apparel, handmade in our NYC atelier. Every piece is designed to be worn by every body. Explore the collection.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is gender-inclusive lingerie?

Gender-inclusive lingerie is designed with multiple fit variations so people of any gender can wear the same style. Unlike unisex designs that aim for a neutral middle ground, gender-inclusive pieces offer options — each tailored to different body types while sharing the same aesthetic.

Can men wear lingerie?

Absolutely. At FERN New York, we design every piece to be worn by every body. Our Androgyne set, for example, includes two bottom variations — the Femme and the Jacqui — so anyone can choose the fit that feels right for them.

What’s the difference between gender-inclusive and unisex lingerie?

Unisex lingerie typically splits the difference between masculine and feminine, often resulting in utilitarian designs. Gender-inclusive lingerie provides options within a style — versions that may lean more feminine or more masculine — so anyone can wear the aesthetic they’re drawn to with a fit that actually works.

Where can I buy gender-inclusive lingerie?

FERN New York offers gender-inclusive luxury lingerie handmade in New York. You can also explore boutiques like Journelle that carry inclusive brands. For truly custom fits, FERN offers couture sizing for all body types.

Is sustainable lingerie less luxurious?

Not at all. FERN New York uses silk charmeuse, French lace, and consciously sourced fabrics — all crafted with French couture techniques in our NYC atelier. Sustainability and luxury are not mutually exclusive.

Gender-Inclusive Lingerie: A Designer's Guide for Every Body